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Whatever Wednesday: The citrus is in. Go eat it all.
THE CITRUS IS IN!
I assume, given that I’m in New England, that if the citrus is here, the citrus is everywhere (at least in the USA). I’m also assuming that there is some left. My fridge looks like I bought it all. In the photo, blood oranges, cara cara oranges, Meyer lemons, and some limes. I’m not sure what the limes are for, honestly, given that I bought the lemons. But limes were on the shopping list, so I bought them, too. This is a great time to make some fruit-flavored gummy candy.
So far, I’ve baked fish with a cara cara orange (not highly recommended) and baked some shrimp with Meyer lemon (really good). I’ve had a lot of lemon water, and made a strawberry and blood orange smoothie for magical amounts of vitamin C. Blood oranges really are amazing, and I can highly recommend them as both seasonal and gorgeous to eat. Oh, and they’re pretty allergen-free.
Strawberry and blood orange smoothie
(Yes, that’s a Grumpy Bear glass. It suited the mood of the day — until I was done with the smoothie.)
If I’m completely honest, I have some mixed feelings about butternut squash. In some preparations, its earthy and fruity and warming. In others, I don’t know, but I don’t like it. For our holiday potluck, though, one of my coworkers made an apple and squash soup that was quite lovely and tasty. She share the recipe, but I ended up not really following it, tweaking the flavors to my own liking. This is a pureed soup, so a stick blender is really helpful. Though it has other uses, the stick blender shines when pureeing hot soups — and it is way easier to clean than the regular blender.
The apples bring out the fruity quality of the squash, and I really like the flavor of butternut with some spice, so the cayenne provides a bit of heat. The use of celery leaves adds flavor and uses a typically wasted part of the vegetable. If you want to make this easy, buy peeled and cubed squash.
Happy Squash
Butternut Squash Soup
1 Tablespoon oil (I’ve been using safflower)
1 sweet white onion, quartered and sliced
1 teaspoon salt
20 oz butternut squash, cubed (about one medium squash, but I frequently buy it chopped)
2 tart apples, peeled, cored, and quartered
1 3/4 cup vegetable stock
1/4 cup celery leaves, chopped
1 teaspoon cardamom
1/8-1/2 teaspoon cayenne
In a large hot sauce pan, add oil and then onion and salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion begins to brown.
Add the squash and then the apples, and cover, without stirring, cooking about 10 minutes with the lid on (steaming the squash and apples).
Add stock and stir well. Cover, bring to a boil, and reduce the heat to low. Simmer until squash is soft and tender, 15-30 minutes, depending on the size of the squash cubes.
Add celery leaves, cardamom, and cayenne (adjust to suit your tastes), stir, and cover again. Remove from heat and let the soup cool a bit. Using a stick blender, puree the soup — or do it in a blender or food processor, in smaller batches, being careful with the steam build-up.
Reheat to serving temperature, or cool completely and reheat to serve the next day. The latter really allows the flavors to meld, so I’d recommend making it ahead if possible.
So the holiday season has brought with it the groaning tables of baked goods and candies, both homemade and not, and none suitable for the food allergic. So it’s time to make your own! I’ve made a few recipes of gluten-free vegan cookies, with mixed results (all edible, none outstanding, none of the recipes my own), but cookies are time-consuming and kitchen-consuming. So are cakes and pies.
Needing a last minute treat for the holidays, to satisfy my own sweet tooth, which spends a lot of time being teased these days, I wanted to try making truffles out of coconut milk and chocolate, with some added flavors to deepen the chocolate’s flavors. I had a great idea, but like so many great ideas, it didn’t pan out quite as planned — these didn’t set up the way I wanted them to, so I froze them. The result was a homemade version of those single bite ice cream treats that came out a few years ago.
They are super quick to make, with most of the time involved being cooling and freezing the chocolate. The dishes involved are minimal. These should keep for a few weeks in the freezer, and some of them are going to work with me for the mid-afternoon chocolate cravings.
Quick Chocolate Bites
Quick Chocolate Bites
10 oz of chocolate, chopped (or use chocolate chips)
13.5 oz of full-fat coconut milk (1 can)
3 Tablespoons good berry jam (strawberry, raspberry, black cherry), seedless recommended (and by “good,” I mean that I generally choose jam — and many food products — by looking for the one with the fewest number of ingredients. For jam, I prefer sugar be used rather than any other sweetener, and few or no preservatives)
1 teaspoon of basil, chopped finely, optional (the frozen cubes of herbs are great for recipes like this)
Put the chocolate in a heat-safe bowl, and set aside.
In a sauce pan, combine the coconut milk, jam, and basil, if using. Whisk together, and bring to a boil.
Pour the boiling coconut milk mix over the chopped chocolate, and stir until chocolate is fully melted. Let the mixture cool until it’s not steaming anymore, then cover and refrigerate until fully chilled (overnight is good).
Using a spoon or small cookie scoop, portion out approximately 1 Tablespoon dollops of the pudding consistency mixture onto a foil or parchment paper-covered cookie sheet, and freeze until solid, about an hour. Store in sealed containers or plastic bags. Use to satisfy chocolate or sugar cravings as they arise.
Are you sick of turkey, maybe not ready for chicken, but it’s cold outside? Maybe something completely different is in order? And it’s still really cold out?
One of my favorite bad day “anywhere but here” fantasies involves the story my friend Jodi and I like to tell about our future retirement to New Orleans, where it is not cold (no matter what your definition of “cold” is, it’s usually warmer down there in the winter), where we’ll sit on the porch of the pink house and yell at squirrels and kids to get off the lawn. And we will eat. For all the croissants and beignets I can’t eat, there are plenty of shrimp that I can (aren’t we always pretty grateful for the food allergies we don’t have?). If you do have a shellfish allergy, consider substituting cooked chicken for the shrimp, adding it at the end and just heating it up.
This stew is warm enough to take off the chill of a long day spent outside in the raw New England winter (well, this stew and some indoor heat), so hopefully it’ll make your winter warmer, too. Short warning — This is NOT a true traditional New Orleanian jambalaya. This is my quick tossing together of the flavors that remind me of my visits to the city.
Simple Jambalaya (esque) Stew
Serves 5-6
1 Tablespoon oil
1 1/2 cup onion, diced
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 bell pepper, chopped
2-5 stalks celery, chopped
12 oz (2 links, one package) andouille sausage, links cut in half lengthwise and then sliced
1 1/2 cups brown jasmati rice**
5-7 cups chicken or vegetable stock**
1 Tablespoon adobo spice mix
2 teaspoons tomato paste
1 Tablespoon dry sherry
1 lb. shrimp, raw, peeled, deveined (see note)
Chop all the vegetables according to your likes — I like the flavor of onions and bell peppers, but in this dish, I don’t want to taste a chunk of either at any time, so I dice those small. However, I want the crunch and flavor of celery, so I chop that in rather large pieces. I want the very flavorful sausage to flavor the entire dish, so I want them slightly smaller than the shrimp will be when cooked, and I leave the shrimp whole (but take off the tails because I don’t like to fuss — do what works for you). Try this, and then adjust it to suit your tastes.
In a large stockpot, over medium heat, add oil and heat until shimmery hot. Add onions and salt, saute for a few minutes. Add bell pepper, stir, and again saute a few minutes. Add the celery and sausage, stir in well, then add the rice and mix to make sure it’s well-coated with the oil and vegetables. Add the chicken stock.
**You will need to adjust the amount of stock based on the rice you choose. I prefer a brown rice in this, but I’m pretty sure that white rice would be more traditional. I used a jasmati blend (a cross of jasmine and basmati rices) because I had it on hand. It was pretty good. You want enough broth to fully cook the rice, and then a few extra cups for a good soupy finish.
Bring the mixture to a boil and add the adobo, tomato paste, and sherry, turning down the heat to simmer over low for 30 minutes. Check to see if the rice is cooked. If it is, add the shrimp, turn off the heat, cover the pot, and let it sit covered for 15 minutes while the shrimp cooks. Taste, and adjust salt and pepper to taste. Serve warm.
NOTE: If you do have a shellfish allergy, consider substituting chicken or leaving the shrimp out all together. The flavors will still be great.
To reheat, go low and slow. In a large and flat saucepan, heat over low until its hot. In a microwave, short bursts and frequent stirring work best. You don’t want to overcook the shrimp, so low and slow.
I made this recipe one day when I needed comfort food and then made it about 10 more times in the next month. Carrots and dill are just a great combination, and carrots lend themselves to sweetness. The maple is well-balanced by the garlic, and I find the combination rather addictive. I’ve tweaked the fine details of this recipe, but it’s really very forgiving, overall. It would make a good, crowd-pleasing side dish for Thanksgiving, and I have to think it might appeal to picky kids (but it has not been field tested on children, because generally people don’t offer their kids up for experimentation).
Maple Dill Carrots
Recipe makes ~3 servings if this is the only vegetable side dish.
1 lb. carrots, peeled and sliced (go organic here if you can — they are noticeable sweeter and more carrot-y, which makes a difference in this recipe)
1 teaspoon dill
1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder (adjust according to your audience)
1 Tablespoon Earth Balance (or butter or margarine of your choice)
1 Tablespoon real maple syrup
Place sliced carrots in a saucepan, with water enough to boil (should basically reach the bottom of the top layer of carrots, but not completely cover them). Add dill and garlic. Bring to a boil and then simmer until carrots are soft, 5-10 minutes.
Carrots and Spice
Drain the carrots — lots of the dill and garlic drain off, but the flavor is boiled in. Add the Earth Balance and maple syrup, and purée. I use a stick blender and do a bit of a half-assed job of it (Denise calls it “rustic”) so that there are some whole carrots and some chunks in the purée. That’s just how I like it. Feel free to purée more or less, as suits your tastes.
This soup is very much for the potato people, my people. If you merely “like” potatoes, you will probably like this soup, but if, in your world, the potato is the pinnacle of nature’s bounty, this soup is for you. It contains other ingredients, but these serve mainly to make the potato shine in all its earthy goodness.
If you really love the potato, make your chopped potatoes bigger — on the order of one-inch cubes, or mix larger and smaller cubes. The big chunks won’t break down as you reheat the soup. If you prefer your potatoes blend well with all the other ingredients, chop everything a little smaller. I opt for nice big chunks of all the vegetables, all of which then maintain their structural integrity and individual flavors and textures.
The original recipe on which this soup is based is lost to the many moves of my grad school years. One of my roommates picked it up at one of our local grocery stores, in the free recipes section up front, and it was cheap and hearty, which made it a winner in our house. It still is. It bears up to some messing with, mainly on quantities and sizes of ingredients, and is easily made vegetarian, but the way I’ve written it up for you is the way I like it best.
Best Potato Soup
6 slices bacon, cooked and chopped or crumbled *(optional — leave off or use a veg substitute to make this vegetarian)
2 teaspoons oil or fat, melted *(olive oil works great. I usually use bacon fat.)
1/2 cup chopped onion
1 cup chopped carrots
4 stalks celery, chopped
4 cups broth *(I prefer half vegetable broth, and half chicken broth, both homemade, but all of one or the other works fine.)
4 cups cubed potatoes
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
salt, to taste *(probably not necessary if you are using commercial broths)
shredded cheddar cheese or cheddar-style vegan cheese *(Daiya is my preference)
Heat oil in soup pot over medium heat until hot. Add onion. Cook until onion is translucent, 5 or so minutes. Add carrots, celery, broth, potatoes, and cayenne. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to low and simmer 20 minutes or until potatoes are done. Taste, add salt if needed. Serve topped with bacon and shredded cheese, if desired.
Best Potato Soup
It really is that easy, and this soup ages very well over the next 5 days or so. The recipe easily doubles to feed a crowd (or yourself all week).
I love soup season. Not only is soup just really good food, but a pot of soup makes 4-12 servings, depending on the recipe, which usually gives me lunch for the week. In one recipe. I love that.
I’m not sure exactly what I was going for when I started working on this soup — cream of broccoli, broccoli potato, broccoli cheese, potato cheese? My notes are a little unclear. It sort of ended up being an intersection of all of them — a creamy, rich soup, with a tangy cheesiness, and lots of broccoli, which is by far one of my favorite vegetables ever. This soup is great for the cold nights we’re starting to have, and it makes about 6 servings.
Creamy Broccoli Soup
2 lbs. russet potatoes, peeled and roughly chopped
1 lb. broccoli crowns, split into florets
2 teaspoons salt, split
1 Tablespoon sherry (could substitute red wine vinegar, but sherry’s flavor is better here)
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1/3 cup + 1/4 cup chicken or vegetable stock
1 Tablespoon Earth Balance or other solid fat
3 Tablespoons tahini
3 Tablespoons ketchup
1 teaspoon mustard
6 Tablespoons nutritional yeast
1 Tablespoon + 2 teaspoons lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon salt (IF NEEDED)
pepper to taste
shredded cheddar style cheese/cheese sub of your choice, to top, optional
Put roughly chopped potatoes in a saucepan, with water to cover, and about 1 teaspoon salt. Over high heat, boil until well done (test with a fork). Drain and mash roughly.
In a separate pot, put broccoli florets and about 1/2 to 1 inch of water. Cover and bring to a boil. Cook broccoli until bright green and JUST done — this takes just a few minutes. The broccoli should still be crisp, but tender. Even if you like your broccoli more well-done, take it out now — it will cook more in the soup. Immediately when done, drain into a colander and let cool. When cool enough to handle, chop it.
Mix the potatoes, broccoli, 2 cups of vegetable stock, and sherry and set aside while you make the sauce.
In a small sauce pan, mix the 1/3c + 1/4 cup stock, and the rest of the ingredients (minus the cheese for topping) over low heat until well combined. You may want to taste this before adding the salt, as your stock may be salty enough. I generally buy low-sodium broth or stock, though, and need this little bit of additional salt.
Add to the pot with the rest of the ingredients, and heat over low, covered, 20-30 minutes. Add more stock if needed, and adjust the seasonings before serving, sprinkled with cheese if you like.
This is part one of a series I’ve been discussing with Denise talking about some of the many things we’ve learned via the “fun” of food allergy diagnosis and lifestyle. Some of what we’ve learned is about food and food production. Some is about psychology, some about culture, and there are probably some life lessons in there somewhere. These posts will come up irregularly, but given that a huge part of the challenge of living with food restrictions is not about actual recipes, we thought it was an important part of our blog mission to talk about “life, the universe, and everything” a bit, too.
One of the weird things about food allergy and food intolerance is that you all of a sudden become a student of our modern food system. It starts with reading labels, but it doesn’t end there. Read a label. Go on, pick up something close to you and read it. Wait, no, never mind, I’m mostly preaching to the choir here. You already know most of this.
On your average* labeled food in the US, your average* non-chemist citizen will be able to identify, if she’s lucky, maybe half* of the ingredients as actual foods. The information on fat content and calories is pretty clear, but actual ingredients are less so.
[*Editorial note: all references to anything like numbers are, for clarity’s sake, completely made up.]
There are entire labs devoted to figuring out how to create tastes and smells and textures that may or may not be based in nature. And these labs aren’t kitchens. To be honest, I think it’s kind of cool that we have this kind of science — that we can make something like a Twinkie exist and be shelf-stable for, well, let’s just assume that it would survive an eternity with all the “freshness” it was given upon creation. I like the idea that sometime, in our post-apocalyptic future, some bedraggled but strong survivor may discover a secret cache of a 7-11, with enough calories to power her through the next month or two, trying to preserve some vestige of the human race.
The point of bothering to share that (admittedly grim) future vision is to primarily give you my bias in this matter. I think science is cool. I think science in food is kind of cool, though I can’t speak to the health impacts of it. And therein lies one of my problems — for the most part, none of these scientists are speaking to, or even studying, the health impacts of their culinary science experiments. Science for the sake of science is one thing. Science for the sake of corporate profit with an unsure safety record, or science that uses the populace as a large pool of guinea pigs isn’t something that makes me sleep soundly at night.
In the US, regulation of food descriptors is next to meaningless. “Natural” doesn’t actually mean anything, and let’s be clear — human beings are “natural” so if we create it, it is also “natural.” And that’s as much as that word means in marketing. Also, as we the food allergic know, most of us are allergic to “natural” things. My first allergic food reaction (or the first one I clocked as such at the time) was to a hazelnut, right off the tree, at a hazelnut farm. You really can’t get much more natural than that.
“Organic”** and “gluten-free” are now defined terms by the USDA and the FDA, respectively. Not much else is.
[**USDA’s page on the National Organic Program is currently down due to the Federal shutdown. So you get wikipedia.]
As I’ve read more and more food labels, and as I’ve looked up all the ingredients I didn’t know, I’ve become more conservative about what I choose to eat. I don’t judge anyone else for making a different choice. We all need to be in charge of our own health — and, indeed, in figuring out what that is. These days, when comparing products, I will generally gravitate towards the product with the fewest number of ingredients — the fewer things I have to worry about, the less stress in my life. And the less I need to read. Given that companies make no efforts to let you know when they’ve changed a recipe, I have to remember that I need to read all labels, even for products I’ve been safely buying for the last few years. It gets tiresome, and so I find it easiest to mostly buy products without labels when I can. Ah, broccoli.
The other thing that I find to be a truth of the food allergy world is that we are pretty constantly learning from one another. With Denise’s corn allergy, I’ve learned so much about processing and how our foods can be contaminated with things that don’t need to be listed because they are part of “processing.” Or ingredients that can be derived from a variety of different source materials, but don’t need to be labeled (lecithin can be a derivative of egg, soy, or sunflower, though the latter two are usually labeled as such). With recalls, I’ve learned how often it is that things go wrong in the manufacturing process and how easy it is to be exposed to something you take all the care in the world to avoid.
This part of the food allergy life is the scary part, and at times, I know fear is a huge driving factor in decisions I make about travel, eating out, and socializing around food. Working through this is not a one-time thing but an ongoing process, and that’s part of why we’ll be writing some of these non-recipe posts. We’re hoping to talk about the role food plays in our lives, how that changes with food allergies, how that can affect families when your food traditions have to shift to accommodate one person’s health (or what happens when the tradition is given precedence over the person), being your own advocate (or not), being the “weird” one, the sheer time factor of needing to make your own stuff, the planning that goes into feeding yourself, and anything else that happens to come up as we write about the other things.
What about you? What would you like to see discussed? What has having food allergies — or being around someone who does — taught you? What do you still need to learn? We’re open to suggestions.